Ohm's law
Enter any two of voltage, current, resistance and power and get the other two, with the working.
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An LED must never go straight onto a battery: it needs a resistor in series to limit the current. Enter the supply, the LED and the current you want to get the exact resistor, the standard value to buy and the power it handles.
Choose the LED colour (or type the forward voltage from its datasheet), the supply voltage and the current you want.
What it works out
An LED drops a nearly fixed voltage, its forward voltage, and lets through as much current as the rest of the circuit allows. Without something to limit the current it overheats and fails, sometimes with a pop.
A resistor in series takes the rest of the supply voltage. Choosing it is Ohm's law on the voltage that is left over, then moving up to the next value you can actually buy, so the current stays a little below your target.
Formula and worked example
The calculator uses exactly these formulas. Write them in your notebook and check one answer by hand: it is the surest way to remember them.
A red LED on a 5 V supply at 20 mA
Answer150 Ω exact; 180 Ω standard (16.7 mA); ¼ W
| LED colour | Typical range | Used here |
|---|---|---|
| Red | 1.8 to 2.2 V | 2.0 V |
| Orange | 1.9 to 2.2 V | 2.1 V |
| Yellow | 1.9 to 2.4 V | 2.1 V |
| Green (yellow-green type) | 1.9 to 2.4 V | 2.2 V |
| Green (bright pure-green type) | 2.8 to 3.6 V | 3.2 V |
| Blue | 2.8 to 3.6 V | 3.2 V |
| White | 2.8 to 3.6 V | 3.2 V |
In projects and exams
Supply, LED colour and current in; the exact resistor, the next E12 value and its power out. Here is where it earns its place in a school year.
Traffic signals, lighthouses, model houses and indicator lamps in exhibition models all need one resistor per LED or per string.
A resistor keeps the LED current within what both the LED and the board's pin can take. Check the board's documentation for its pin limit.
A higher resistor and a lower current make a battery last longer, and the LED is often still bright enough.
Put LEDs in series to share one resistor on a higher supply, or give each parallel LED its own resistor.
Check your work
These are the slips that cost marks in exams and burn out parts on the bench.
The LED may light for a moment and then fail. Even a coin cell project is safer with a calculated resistor.
LEDs are never exactly alike, so one hogs the current and burns out, then the next. Use one resistor for each LED in parallel.
The longer leg is the anode (+) and the cathode (−) is beside the flat edge of the rim. Backwards, it simply stays dark.
On 12 V or more, the resistor may need more than ¼ W. The calculator shows the power and the rating to buy.
Questions
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Ask on WhatsAppThe longer leg is the anode, which goes towards the positive supply. The shorter leg, next to the flat side of the LED's rim, is the cathode and goes towards negative.
Yes. A bigger resistor means less current: the LED is a little dimmer, runs cooler and lasts longer, and the battery lasts longer too. A smaller resistor than calculated pushes the LED beyond your chosen current.
It is the standard series of 12 resistor values in each decade: 10, 12, 15, 18, 22, 27, 33, 39, 47, 56, 68 and 82, and the same numbers times 10, 100, 1,000 and so on. Kits and shops stock these values.
It differs by colour and by make. Red LEDs are around 2 V and blue or white around 3 V, but the datasheet gives the exact figure. The calculator uses a typical value when you leave the box empty.
Check the resistor value first (a 3.3 kΩ in place of 330 Ω is a common slip), then the battery: a used 9 V battery can drop a lot under load. Measure the current with a multimeter in series.
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